hey how's it going YouTube and welcome to another video of the wild sled today's video is all about pre-season maintenance so the temperatures starting to drop outside and I think it's a perfect time to haul the snowmobile out go over a front to back and make sure it's all ready for the season they had so in a minute we'll go onto the sled and I'll just go through my checklist of things that I definitely want to check before I start writing for the season some of the things that I'm talking about you know when we're talking about cleaning the sled and increasing certain parts you might want to do at the end of the season before you put it away that's not to say that you can't do some of these things again but you definitely want to make sure that you check all the items on this list off before the season starts so hope you find it useful let's go into this light gonna begin I'm just gonna wash the sled front to back I'm gonna take the power washer and blow all the crap low to the front rear suspensions we're gonna check the slide for front to back I'm going to grease and oil a few key areas and I'll just show you what I do to get ready for the season so I'm gonna make sure I hit these really good up front and there's a lot of grime and I'll just blast all the old grease and dirt and everything out and every grease that and power washer takes a lot of stuff up nothing beats so we're gonna check this seat a little bit later in the video I'll talk about the protectant that we're gonna put on this but for now we're just doing a visual inspection we want to check you know all the seams and everything we want to check it carefully for tears the reason I say that is if there is anything ripped or torn we want to patch it before it starts to get worse because this you know these but 150 bucks to to repair one of these seats but this one looks good no problems number two let's just check the hood and really it's just a basic visual inspection right you're not you don't have to be a mechanic to do this you want to check the lid latches make sure they're good start at the back I'm gonna give the track obviously a good inspection for missing lugs tear is where my track actually is in pretty good shape gonna check the sliders as well make sure they are okay I've got the the back of the slide lifted off the ground so they don't want some of the pressure off of this idler wheels for the bogie wheels and I can check the make sure the bearings are good on these so play make sure the rubbers are all there general look over the suspension parts okay next let's check the the kite carbides aware bars and we got lots on there there you know and obviously the ski on a snowmobile is fairly important part so go just check it over make sure there's no cracks there they're a bit flexible so if you pull on it at all you'll see if there's a crack you should be able to open it up so you want to make sure everything's tight not worn or deformed let's just check the cables and basically you're just gonna pull the throttle back and you'll be able to see if there's any if any of those wires are frayed pull your starter out and have a look so you can see this one's starting to fray a little bit that's certainly nothing I'm worried about yet but I'm not gonna pull it out all the way cuz I'm just showing you the things I inspect but you know pull that out and have a look at it so when you're greasing the sled make sure that you've you've purchased a grease that's made to perform in low temperature so this is when the motor master puts it I actually started using this mobile FAQ p1 or two so this is a synthetic grease that's that's made for low temperature performance so shout out to the guys at Colburn sleds in shallow lake who recommended this and this is what I started using on my you check your owners manual to show you the the grease points on the sled so I've got a couple in the front suspension here we're gonna go ahead and grease 670 also has one in the middle and the rear suspension and there's another grease fitting right here that we want to get now the other thing you want to do and this is probably even more important to do when you put the sled away in the springtime but get yourself some Ross chat and just just make sure you spray anything any of the metal parts that aren't painted take a few minutes and run this light and make sure your lights are we're gonna put a UV protectant on the seat I've used arm rail in the past but it doesn't leave a bit of an oily film if you've used our mural and it doesn't make the seat slippery so I did a little bit of reading and I asked on some of the forums and 303 aerospace protectin is what a lot of people recommend it so I ordered some of this about $14 and I'm just gonna use a dry cloth make sure I've wiped any excess off so it's nice and even we don't get any streaking and discoloration and we're gonna check the chain King soil now I've done another video on changing the chain case oil I don't think it suddenly needs to be done every year every other year maybe but you certainly want to check it so you know there's a lot of discussion back and forth online about what the right oil is to use I do use the XPS chain case oil so the chain case oil that's recommended by them just led manufacturer I mean of course the the manufacturer wants to you you want you to use their brand so but I do use this it's a little bit more expensive yes but I mean you're still I mean you're not talking about hundreds of dollars here for some chain case oil so I do use this you want to check the coolant level in the sled and there again that is something that I buy the the manufacturers recommended product for and it's not that expensive and I know I'm using what the manufacturer recommended for this stone you know for the cost of spark plugs let's start the season out with two fresh spark plugs with the drive cover off we're gonna inspect the belt for wear and damage we're gonna take this belt off so you have a better look at it and clean the inside of that the drive pulley and the driven pulley now if you've never done that before you've got a tool it looks like this one it's just a little threaded tool that fits in there and as you thread that in it pushes against the other side and spreads this a little bit just enough to get this belt off what you get the belt off and out of the way you can go ahead and clean the the inside surfaces of your primary and secondary clutch or your drive pulley and you're driven bully and you can use something like a brake cleaner or a lacquer thinner something that's not gonna leave any residue on the inside of the the clutch and make your belt slip I think I think you want to do is just go over the slide and check all of your your hoses and lines basically anything flexible that a mouse could you for example there's a get yourself a good silicon based lube that you can put on these things so they don't end up drying and cracking on you all right guys so that's my top list of things that I would want to check from a maintenance perspective before I arrived for the season and again a lot of those things you can do at the end of the writing season as well before you put your slide away so whether you've got a vintage flatter you've got a classic slide like this one or you know even some of the newer slides a lot of those maintenance tips are just as valid so I hope you found that useful and if you did go ahead and hit like or subscribe and I'll see you next time

Snowmobile Pre Season MAintenance Checklist – S2E#3
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27 thoughts on “Snowmobile Pre Season MAintenance Checklist – S2E#3

  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Thanks Dave .. very nice review of what to look for.. Can you keep me in mind for when you want to sell your sled.. You have keep it pristine.. Looks like new!!! 🙂

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Just wondering if you will have a video for end of season storage

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Taking off the belt and cleaning it with soap and water helps. Also change your spark plug boots about every 3 years. The resistor spring inside gets worn out and you will lose rpm's over time. Very inexpensive also. Most of them you just in screw off and screw a new one on.

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Whats the name of that "clutch tool" that spreads the clutch plates please?

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Good man, thanks for sharing!

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Wow nice video for my 2000 Mxz! Thanks

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Dave you check out my new(er) sled?? Its a nice MXZ X package 2012 800etec

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    I kinda disagree Dave with blasting the water directly on the greased components ,i know its hard not too , but your blasting away grease too.I realize you greased it afterwards,but just something to keep in mind when your just washing it.

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Nice channel I just picked up a 96 artic cat 440z with only 1000km on it just needed plugs and fresh gas I cleaned the carbs as well now it’s like new again

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Hey man, this video is awesome and so is the Chanel! Theses videos are the best for new sleders!

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Hey thanks for putting these together – I'm new to the sled world so this is a great introduction to basic maintenance and keeping me safe on (and off!) the trails.

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Hello. was wondering if your sled has a grease insert on where the speedometer cable goes into? Below the secondary clutch? Thanks. love the videos

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Good job.
    the one thing you did miss while greasing which is very important is the jack shat bearing.
    under the secondary clutch you will see your speedo cable going in and right beside it there's a grease nipple to grease the bearing. If you speedo stops working is usually caused by lack of grease in this area. Hope this helps, and I wish everyone a safe and fun season.

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Hi again,hey was anyone mentioning that you run your track on the tight side.
    i also do some drag racing every season,if its performance your after,run it loose as possible,on the edge of ratcheting,then tighten abit. The book says 1 inch to 1 1/4 with 10pounds attached in the middle ,but take it from a racer,thats waaaaaayyyyy too tight.Just a heads up.

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    I always remove my belt in the spring. I find it forms a "memory" nice video. Brap on

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Dave you didn't add the OEM rubber caps on your Bogey wheels ?

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Are you going too do an after season checklist? How you should leave your sled till next season and all that. Love your vids, keep up the awesome work!

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    what year is your sled

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Hey Dave, Great video and awesome looking sled you have there. You treat a sled the way it should be treated, and you will get lots of trouble free enjoyment. How many km/miles do you have on this one?

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    That's a nice list you've put together here in this video. This kind of stuff can potentially prevent a breakdown on trails and nobody wants that to happen. I've been really fortunate with my 2000 MXZ 700. I've had it for 5 seasons and have never had a breakdown. If you take good care of the sled and do the things that you mentioned in this video it really goes a long way. Too many guys just hop on and go and then have problems on the trial where it's either irreparable or inconvenient to deal with and ruins the ride. I put together a similar video a few years back and of coarse there's always something more that can be done and people will mention that, but doing something is still better than nothing. Great vid!

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Some good tips here. Some other things to check are brake pads and fluid. Also I'd suggest you open the air box and check for any debris you don't want getting sucked into the engine. More important if you store your machine outside like I do (mouse nest). Check fuel and vent lines for cracks and going brittle as well. I like to add a shot class full of methyl hydrate/gas line antifreeze to my first fill up to help burn off any accumulated moisture in the tank and I run about half a tank through it before i change my fuel and oil filters. I find it gets any sediment from sitting up into the filter before i change it.

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Great video! I would just suggest that when you have he belt off that you use some sand paper and sand the clutches. if the clutches get to polished the the belt will slip rather then catch. Just something I do every year and always makes a difference.

    Thanks

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    You're a great teacher Dave ! Never even thought about adding Silcone Lube on my hoses ! I'll make sure to do that ! We got snow on the ground but not enough for sledding… Plus the weather channal is announcing tons of rain this week… Great video !

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    great video. I just changed the track on our old Polaris so it's good for the season. I will make sure to thoroughly look over my sled. thanks keep up the great videos

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Thanks Mark. I have to admit, I haven't been as diligent as I should have been, so putting together the video was a great excuse to get out there and do it. The spring is usually long and wet and muddy and I have kind of just put it away and pulled out the boats. I know some of the more mechanically inclined do a lot more than this but I'm not quite up for pulling my clutches apart. Maybe in the summer.

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  • June 20, 2019 at 8:57 pm
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    Some great tips there. So many people ignore the simple things that will keep the sled looking and running like new. Silicone lube/ Armourall is an excellent way to keep all the rubber and plastic parts from aging.It should be sprayed on the track and idler wheels to.

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