waxing your skis one of the most important and easiest things you can do to make sure that you're getting around the mountain without getting stuck in the flat spots and to make sure you're making it down faster than your friends you want to go fast the best thing you can do is make sure your skis get waxed at least a couple times a year if your ski a lot and you don't want to do it once a week I'm gonna run you through the basics of a very simple hot wax your wax there's a lot of different choices out there you know many different brands toko Holman Cole Swick's it's really up to you which brand you want to go with we're using homeland coal here today in this video I run home and call quite a bit on our test skis and on our demos and stuff like that it's a great wax and the laxity they're used to that are skews is beta beta is a red wax it's kind of the middle temperature range and it's also probably the most or no the widest range of temperatures that you can hit so let me run you through the process rubberband definitely need one of these to clear the break out of the way I've got the Nordica enforcer ski here which doing a wider ski so I'll run you through how to make sure you get everything covered there you want to press the brake down with your left hand or right hand if you're right-handed this will bring the brakes up just as if you were stepping into the binding with your ski boot hook the band run it over the top of the binding to the other side to make sure that you're free of the edge once you've got the brake all secured put the ski over I like to run the tip to my right hand side cuz you always want to work the ski from the tip to the tail before you just started putting any wax on the ski you want to make sure that you've got the base cleaned out you know whether you've got any you know grunge from the last run of the last day speed you want to make sure this ski is relatively dry if there's any leftover wax on it if you didn't good job scraping it last time you want to make sure you scrape that off so I usually just run up a scraper over it once before you know even if you can see this ski had a little bit of grime on it just from one pass with the scraper so no mayo make one more pass here make sure once you get a ski all played out take your preferred wax out for what you believe the temperature's going to be the next day I like to give this ski a nice little coat before I wax it rub the wax on just by hand this just smells protect the base of the ski when you're waxing it to make sure that you don't burn any areas of this ski so I like to rub a little bit on there and then you take your hot iron from an iron standpoint you can use even an iron that's built for a house you know for doing your clothes if you don't want to go out and spend some money on a specific ski iron the difference is you'll find is that you know your house iron obviously usually has a steaming aspect to it to get your Cotton's to relax those holes are gonna make it a little more difficult with the with the wax but they do work in a jiffy or Jam I've used it many times before when it's all I have what I do is I put the iron over and basically we're gonna make an S shape down this ski so that I have a nice even pattern from right to left covering the whole ski all the way down starting to tip work it back and forth go across with the iron that I usually just do one more strip right down the middle make sure I got enough on there obviously if you have a wider ski eating you little moral accent if you have a narrower speed so once you've got the wax laid on there take your iron I prefer the horizontal approach versus the vertical this way I get the cross the bowl ski one thing you do want to make sure is that if you do have a nice iron you just spend a bunch of money on if you always want run it in the same direction that you did before so if your edges do put any scratches in it they're going with the flow of this ski so working it back and forth don't be afraid to go forwards and backwards with this basically just trying to get a nice even coat across the entire ski you always want to keep the iron moving you never want to stop in one spot because you will burn your base or bubble your base which is a super bummer because it's not really fixable so I like to run back and forth on the ski you know three or four times you're trying to heat the ski up nice and evenly throughout you have a good indication of whether you got the ski hot or not is whether you start to feel the warmth come through on the backside then I'll finish with one long continuous pass from the tip to the tail I'll then take this ski set aside let it dry and let that base material absorb that wax you want to let it sit for a little bit to really soak that in the eye the optimal setup is to let it sit overnight but if you're you know if you're in a jam or something like that we're gonna have time in the morning to scrape your skis let it sit for you know 20-30 minutes or so then cool down and you can scrape it then okay so now that my ski is cooled down I'm ready to scrape you always want to have a sharp scraper so a sharp scraper is kind of equivalent of a sharp knife a dull knife is a dangerous knife a sharp knife is a safe knife if it's dull you're gonna be pushing really hard there's potential for you to slip and hit your nice freshly tuned up edge cut your finger open we don't want any of that so I always make sure you have a nice sharp scraper so you don't need to use a lot of pressure this is a toko scraper sharpener a nice easy portable one that you can carry with you it's got different widths for the different size scrapers you know they make fixed scrapers thin scrapers I prefer them on a little bit thicker side that way they don't bend too much this way although it is nice to have a little bit of flexibility there so now this one itself is basically you just slide the thing through and you're removing later I like to rotate back and forth because one of the things with this type of a scraper sharpener is that you can actually you know work the middle too much so then you end up with a concave when when you go to try to scrape you hit here and hit here and you don't get all the wax out of the middle that's key so the one that I prefer is a cheap option from you know down at Home Depot what I've got here is a basically just sheetrock sandpaper used for removing mud from walls any any hardware store basically you can get that at and then I've got a ninety degree piece of aluminum so I'll place that right on there set my scraper up against the side of it and then just run it back and forth this way I've got a nice smooth clean edge ready to scrape escape again when you're scraping the ski you always want to work from tip to tail in one direction so just go along here and remove the bulk of that wax sometimes it'll build up a little bit in the tips if you take some short passes there make sure you get it all off the objective is to remove as much of that wax as you can the old wax on wax off done a nice job here you can see there's no areas with massive glimpse of wax on there obviously all the little pores are still full which means we need to rub the brush on it to get all that out and really buff it kind of spit shine it so again I'm gonna use the rotobrush here but you do have cheaper options that you can do by hand which I'll show you in a second yeah I basically I have this in Reverse so you can see my rotor brush is spinning this way towards me making sure that I move down this ski it's not gonna in my face let's do the other way it's a little more difficult so you see I am kind of going back forth a little bit here and there just make sure you know you're not putting a lot of down pressure on it this is a nylon brush if you're using a steel brush or something like that you for sure would only want to go in that direction now I can do one final pass just to make a nice as you can see now we've got you know those little pores are cleaned out we've got a nice polished shining base if you do choose not to use the the righto brush you can see here the Oval brushes this is an example of a nylon brush horsehair brush and a steel brush you know if you just got one brush I recommend going with the horse fair which is kind of a final step with a nylon essentially if you were to buy all three you'd use a steel a nylon and then a horse there to really give it that polish there I really is this a hand brush is super simple same thing just work the ski tip the tail and again you can see those little pieces of wax coming out of course the more you brush your ski the more polished it gets the faster you get so there you have it the easy hot wax at home

HOW TO WAX YOUR SKIS
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9 thoughts on “HOW TO WAX YOUR SKIS

  • June 17, 2019 at 11:06 am
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    Great video. I have been waxing wrong for the past 49 years. I bought in 1970 an old iron at at the Salvation Army and when scrapping, I didn't remove all that much wax and then I buffed the base with a large cork block.

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  • June 17, 2019 at 11:06 am
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    Great video and tips . I like the way ypu sharpen your scraper . Guess I'll be going to home depot . My nylon brush is full of wax after doing several skis. How can I clean them ? Again Thanks for the info

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  • June 17, 2019 at 11:06 am
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    nice and simple enough instruction! Thanks, man

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  • June 17, 2019 at 11:06 am
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    Great video
    Thank u for sharing

    Reply
  • June 17, 2019 at 11:06 am
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    Why not just engage the binding to get the brake out of the way?

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  • June 17, 2019 at 11:06 am
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    Excellent tutorial, perfect for me, "expert" recreational skier, fed up with poor and overpriced service and disgusted by the junk you get when using "premium" or "top" rentals. Thanks a lot.

    Reply
  • June 17, 2019 at 11:06 am
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    Thanks very nice instruction!

    Reply

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